Between the Caribbean Sea and the Limón jungle is a town that exudes happiness and relaxation: Puerto Viejo, forty-eight kilometers southeast of Limón.
Key points
- Puerto Viejo, in the Talamanca canton, is a few kilometers from Cahuita National Park and has all kinds of services.
- Salsa Brava, with its high, heavy waves and coral reef break, is for experienced surfers, not beginners.
- Divers have the Cahuita National Park coral reef; swimmers and kids have Manzanillo, calm as a huge pool.
- On foot: the Cahuita National Park trail, the Manzanillo-Gandoca refuge and the waterfalls around Bribri.
- Downtown is lively at night with bars and live music; hotels and cabins are outside downtown, away from the noise.
Between the Caribbean Sea and the Limón jungle is a town that exudes happiness and relaxation. This town is called Puerto Viejo and is located forty-eight kilometers southeast of Limón. Puerto Viejo is part of the Talamanca canton and is just a few kilometers away from Cahuita National Park. This small city does not lack anything: it has all kinds of services and is close to everything, from the beach to the forest, the reefs, surfing and people.
For those looking for beautiful beaches to dive, swim or surf, this town has an enviable location. And if you are a fan of hiking in lush mountainous jungles, Puerto Viejo has the best places around: parks with trails to go into the forest and observe all kinds of plants and animals.
Beaches, surf and diving
“Salsa Brava”, meaning something like “mad sauce”, is the name of the beach that local and foreign surfers visit for its high and heavy waves. Not recommended for beginners, Salsa Brava has a reputation for sometimes making surfers hesitate before getting in the water. Its coral reef break can be dangerous if surfers are not careful enough.
Even if you are not into surfing, watching the daredevils while eating at the beach restaurant is worth it.
For divers, Cahuita National Park has a beautiful 600-acre coral reef. Sadly, climate change has reduced the coral reef. So if you are planning to postpone your trip to Costa Rica to visit the reef, well, maybe you should do it now, before this wonder of nature is gone.
For casual swimmers, kids and beach lovers, Puerto Viejo is really close to the best beaches in the country. You have plenty to choose from, from Conchal, with its white sand and rough but fun-to-play-with waves, to Manzanillo, where there are almost no waves. Manzanillo feels like a huge pool. And speaking of unique beaches, Playa Negra, just a few meters away from downtown, has the particularity of having black sand.
Hiking
If you are more into relaxing activities like walking and exploring around, you can visit Cahuita National Park. Its main trail takes you to the reef, then you can walk pleasantly along Puerto Vargas beach. After walking for a while, you meet the trail back to the second entrance.
Same for the Manzanillo-Gandoca Natural Refuge. With its untouched beaches, it is the perfect place to feel like an explorer visiting the “New World”.
You can also go to Bribri, a town you can reach on foot, by bicycle or by car, then take the trails to the waterfalls. There are different waterfalls near the village, so it would be wise to ask locals which are the best ones for your physical condition. You can ask for a pond to take a dive in too; there are plenty of them.
Almost none of the roads around Puerto Viejo are paved yet. While some people would see this as a negative trait, for most it is the best way to give the area its rustic vibe. You can take any of those roads on foot or by bike and you'll find yourself inside the forest very fast. Many animals and birds lurk along these roads, among big trees and all kinds of things you cannot see in the city.
Downtown
Puerto Viejo can be crowded sometimes. It can be very quiet too. Most people get around town by bike or on foot, so even if there are a lot of people around, you won't hear loud cars or trucks. You will only hear the music of the bars and restaurants and other people chatting, with the waves hitting Playa Negra beach in the background.
Downtown is lively at night, with people dancing in the bars near the beach, live music and people walking in the streets. Some of them head to the beach for intimate talks and to watch the moon before going to sleep. Hotels and cabins are outside downtown, so don't worry about the noise of downtown taking valuable hours of sleep from you.
Conclusion
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is simply the best hot spot to visit on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. It has beaches with strong waves for experienced surfers, beaches with almost no waves for swimmers and kids, and plenty of natural attractions for hikers and explorers. The question here is not “why?” but “when?”. When are you going to visit Puerto Viejo with one of our tours or on one of our rental motorcycles?
Both of our Panamá tours spend their first night in Puerto Viejo. See the Panamá Tour 9 days
To ride there at your own pace, self-guided: Rent a bike
